Printer bed
Sets the tallest body that prints. Bodies print socket down, the neck adds 10.
Pole
Geometry checks
A port of the design's own verifier. It measures the exported meshes, not the settings: thread clearances from slices, struts and openings from ray probes, and the seated parts intersected to prove they don't collide.
Honeycomb
Threads
Reservoir
Spike
How to build it
- Print the thread-fit coupons first (about 30 minutes). Screw them together: if they bind, raise the clearance; if they rattle, lower it.
- Print one body segment socket down with a brim. It is the long print; a 15 s minimum layer time helps cooling.
- Print the spike tip up (collar on the bed), the watering body socket down and the lid plate down. No supports anywhere: every shoulder is a 45° cone and the hex openings are flat-topped.
- Push the spike into the pot so its shoulder sits at the soil line, then screw the bodies on. The rims seat on each other when the thread is home.
- Stuff each open body with damp sphagnum moss. Thread a 6 mm cotton or polyester rope through the watering body's funnel hole so it hangs into the moss below.
- Screw the watering body on top, fill it through the lid, and screw the lid on. The wick, not a pinhole, sets the drip rate, so nothing clogs.
Stack order: spike → open bodies → watering body → lid. Add open bodies as the plant climbs; the watering body and lid move to the top.
Designed for a 0.5 mm nozzle at 0.3 mm layers in PETG (240/60 °C, glue stick on PEI). PLA works indoors.